Better cosmetics thanks to better microbiome models

• New model of the skin microbiome allows laboratory testing in realistic conditions
• Impact of cosmetic ingredients on microbial communities is now measurable
• Scientifically substantiated efficacy claims are growth drivers for the cosmetics industry

Evonik has developed a new model of the skin microbiome. For the first time, this model allows a scientifically substantiated evaluation of the influence of cosmetic ingredients and products on skin microbiota in laboratory tests. The company is currently testing cosmetic ingredients from its own product portfolio to obtain evidence-based information on their microbiome-friendliness. Cosmetic producers and consumers are increasingly interested in scientific evidence of the efficacy of cosmetics. In addition, the data will give Evonik a basis for developing even better cosmetic ingredients.

The skin microbiome—comprising all bacteria, fungi, and viruses found in the skin—varies from one person to another. It is exposed to many internal and external influences, from diet to sunlight. The occurrence of specific strains of bacteria is characteristic of certain skin zones, which can be described as sebaceous, moist or dry.

Stefan Pelzer, Head of Microbiome Research at Evonik’s Biotech Hub. Credit: Evonik Industries AG

“Many modern cosmetics advertise that they are microbiome-friendly,” says Stefan Pelzer, who is responsible for microbiome research at Evonik. “However, the tests used at present do not fully replicate the complexity of the skin microbiome.” As a rule, the impact of the ingredients of a cosmetic product on individual strains of bacteria is screened. The complex interaction between microorganisms is not taken into account.

By contrast, Evonik’s new skin microbiome model looks carefully at precisely these interactions and mutual interdependencies in the laboratory. For this, between eight and ten typical skin microbes are co-cultivated. In other words, the conditions are chosen so that all strains of bacteria can proliferate and interact. That is a specific strength of this new approach.

Parameters are the increase or decrease in the biomass and changes in the diversity of the cultures for a test substance compared with a control. They are then entered in an evaluation matrix as “microbiome-boosting,” “microbiome-friendly,” “microbiome-modulating,” or “microbiome-impairing.” Every significant change in the diversity of the bacteria is regarded as adverse because the protective function of the skin microbiome depends on the natural equilibrium of the microorganisms.

The microbiome consortium is grown on microplates. These standardized plates allow investigation of 48 individual samples simultaneously. Moreover, this is quantifiable and cheaper than previous methods. Pelzer: “Our new model closes the gap between simple but less meaningful conventional in-vitro tests and more time-consuming in-vivo studies on test persons.”

In addition to the co-culture model for balanced skin, Stefan Pelzer’s team has already developed a model for skin that is susceptible to acne. Further models are to be developed in collaboration with customers in the cosmetics industry. Moreover, work to enhance complexity has already started. One possibility would be combining the bacterial co-cultures with tissue and cell culture models. After all, as Pelzer explains, microorganisms do not simply interact with each other; they also interact with the skin cells.

The scientific findings are of relevance for a large market. Experts estimate that global retail sales of cosmetic and care products will be around US$460 billion this year. By 2027, that could increase to around US$580 billion. Scientifically substantiated efficacy claims will be key to this growth. According to a recent study, one in two younger consumers obtains extensive information on product benefits and ingredients prior to making purchases.

Evonik’s expertise is pooled in its own Biotech Hub and Skin Institute. The Biotech Hub brings together Evonik’s competency in biotechnology. This includes an in-depth understanding of complex biological systems such as the gut microbiota and skin microbiome and of biotechnological production processes. About 150 employees in Hanau and Halle (Germany) and Shanghai (China) are working on biotechnological approaches to sustainable solutions for a healthy life and a healthy planet—known at Evonik as Biosolutions.

The role of the Skin Institute, which was established in 2023 and comprises a network of laboratories in Singapore, India, Spain, and Germany, is to provide evidence of dermacosmetic claims for Evonik’s present and planned portfolio of cosmetic ingredients. Dermacosmetics are cosmetic products containing active ingredients with well-defined and scientifically substantiated benefits for the skin. A claim describes these benefits and is also used to promote the products.

Company information
Evonik is one of the world leaders in specialty chemicals. The company is active in more than 100 countries around the world and generated sales of €15.3 billion and an operating profit (adjusted EBITDA) of €1.66 billion in 2023. Evonik goes far beyond chemistry to create innovative, profitable, and sustainable solutions for customers. About 32,000 employees work together for a common purpose: We want to improve life today and tomorrow.

Disclaimer
In so far as forecasts or expectations are expressed in this press release or where our statements concern the future, these forecasts, expectations or statements may involve known or unknown risks and uncertainties. Actual results or developments may vary, depending on changes in the operating environment. Neither Evonik Industries AG nor its group companies assume an obligation to update the forecasts, expectations or statements contained in this release.

Weitere Informationen:

https://youtube.com/live/LxdXd7_Y7GQ?feature=share – Video of the event [German]
https://www.linkedin.com/events/evonikresearchpressconference2072348367144169840… – Video of the event [English]
https://evonik.media/RPC24 – Microsite for the research press conference 2024
https://elements.evonik.com/en.html – Elements, Evonik’s innovation magazine
https://www.evonik.com/en/news.html – Overview of all Evonik press releases